Continuing with the subregions of Barolo on the western side, let’s talk about the crus in the town of Barolo itself. Like La Morra, the wines in the Barolo crus are grown in Tortonian soil that is rich in magnesium and manganese. Compared to La Morra Barolos, the wines from the cru vineyards of Barolo are bolder and broader, with more structure and a velvety mouth-feel. These are the powerful inky wines that most people think of when they hear the term “Barolo”. The cru vineyards in Barolo include:
Bricco Viole – This high altitude vineyard of Bricco Viole produces incredibly silky Barolos.
Brunate – Considered one of the best vineyards in Barolo since ancient times, the wines of Brunate have a pronounced garnet-red color and their flavor has hints of balsamic and menthol.
Cannubi – A long sloping hill in the very heart of the Barolo area, Cannubi is a rightfully famous vineyard where the western Tortonian soil blends with the chalky Helvetian soil to the east. The hills surrounding the Cannubi vineyard protect it from storms and other extreme weather, yielding a unique microclimate ideal for producing incredibly balanced wines possessing classic Barolo flavors of roses and vanilla.
Cannubi Boschis – This vineyard is on the same hillside as Cannubi, and produces wines that are very rich, dark and fruity. Many of the Cannubi Boschis are excellent for aging.
Rue – Barolos from the Rue vineyard always seem to shock me with their high concentration of tannins and their sensation of warmth. Rue Barolos are my ideal wine for a savory meal on a cold winter day.
San Lorenzo – A small south facing vineyard on rather slimy calcareous soil, San Lorenzo produces very sweetly tannic wines.
Sarmassa – This southeast facing vineyard is located on an almost perfectly sloped hill, on soil that contains a large amount of stones. These stones in the Sarmassa vineyard limit the ability of Nebbiolo grapes to grow, but also enable clusters that are there to ripen better. These truly excellent Barolos are noted for their pine and woody notes. My choice of wine for a dinner out when I’m trying to impress.
The commune of Barolo is definitely worth a visit for anyone touring the area. As you drive in from the north, you can see the legendary Cannubi vineyards roll by outside your window. The Castello Falletti is quite a sight to behold, and the Marchesi di Barolo tasting room located across from the Castello is one of the few wineries that permit walk-in tastings. Enoteca La Vita Turchese in the middle of Barolo town, with its vinyl records covering the wall and fun hipster vintage decor, is a really great place to try different Barolos in a different and unique environment.
