When it comes to the absolute best makers of Barolo, Poderi Aldo Conterno has to be at or near the very top. Almost all of the wine they produce is highly rated, with the 2005 Aldo Conterna Riversa Grand Bussia from the Monforte d’Alba region receiving an extremely rare perfect 100 point ranking from Benchmark Wine. Of course, these absolutely perfect Barolos cost a pretty penny, with most bottles going for a couple hundred dollars. That being said, one of my favorite things about Barolo is the fact that you can get a hundred point bottle in the $200 to $300 range, for much less than the best Bordeauxs and Burgundies. In spite of the lower cost, I personally feel these wines pack a lot more flavor, energy, and spirit than Bordeauxs and Burgundies. And what flavor those Poderi Aldo Conternos have! I recently tried the 2005 Aldo Conterna Riserva Grand Bussia, and felt like I’m tasting a bit of a pure distillation of what Barolo is all about: the fragrance of rose petals and tar, the bold flavor wrapped in dignified silk, all of it is there! Meanwhile, the 2014 Romiracso which I recently cracked open is bursting with creative zest, each taste giving way to new flavors moment by moment: blackberries, and then dried flowers and cinnamon, and then a slight spice of anise and licorice. If you want to understand why people travel from all over the world just to see the vineyards and taste the wines of Barolo, taste some wines from Poderi Aldo Conterno.
The winery’s namesake, Aldo Conterno, was considered one of Piedmont’s most brilliant winemakers, and was particularly known for making wines of incredible balance. Today his three sons Franco, Stefano and Giacomo continue the tradition. The winery uses organic techniques, and lean towards the modernist approach (shortening the maceration time and pressing the skins earlier) but with a hefty dose of traditionalist methods as well. The winery owns about 62 acres of land in the Bussia vineyards, and is particularly known for its Granbussia, a blend of approximately 70% Romirasco, 15% Cicala and 15% Colonnello. Those who prefer a bolder Barolo can try Aldo Conterno’s Cicala, while those looking for a more entry level wine should check out the Soprana Bussia.
