With all apologies to Lil’ Uzi Vert, we’re talking about Cru and not “crew”. The term “cru” comes from France and is derived from the French verb for “to grow”. The label is applied to vineyards or groups of vineyards that are recognized for having specific and exemplary quality, and is particularly common for vineyards in Burgundy where particularly excellent vineyards are designated “Grand cru.” Though there have been efforts to establish a similar classification for the vineyards of Barolo, no official cru designations exist. However, Barolo winemaker Renato Ratti conducted a detailed study of the region’s grapes and created a well-known “Ratti map” of the region’s vineyard plots based on their quality. The map (shown below) is still used extensively today, and is familiar to every tourist who has visited a winery or enoteca in the region.
Among these regions, there are 5 that are colloquially known as having cru class Barolos: La Morra, Barolo, Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d’Alba, and Serralunga d’Alba. Within each region there are multiple cru vineyards (such as Cannbui and Sarmassa in the Barolo commune, two of my personal favorites). La Morra and Barolo sit on dark tinted Tortonian soil, which is fertile and rich in magnesium and manganese. The wine from the crus in this region tend to be perfumed, softer, rounder, and more approachable. Castiglioni Falletto, Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba sit on chalky Helvetian soil with high levels of iron and phosphorus. The wines produced in the crus in these regions are more bold and intense with a more pronounced tannic structure. These wines also require more aging than those from the La Morra and Barolo communes. In the coming days, I’ll be introducing each of these cru regions and describing what makes the wine in each cru region distinctive, from the differences in soil to the unique flavor profiles of the Barolo made in different crus. I’ll be Rollin’ with my Cru, and you should join me :).
